11/9/2023 0 Comments Large dice boxHaving the rods come through exactly where I was engraving made it very difficult to get the end of the rod flat and even w/ the work. This could have been fixed by using a slightly larger hole (ultimately I used a 3/16" drill bit to open up the holes). Because the holes were a tight fit, the top layer of plywood often chipped off between the engraved ring and the edge of the board, as I was pushing the rod through. I engraved a ring with the alignment holes along this ring. I had several problems related to these brass rods. (I craft my SVG files both by hand (in a text editor) and in Inkscape – the SVG file format defines circles with their radius, so that’s what I think of them as, not diameter.) Interestingly, 1mm (radius) is 0.03937 inches, and the laser kern is reported as 0.005 inches, so my test fit of 0.034, plus the kern of 0.005, matches up to my calculated expected value. Some test cuts determined that a 0.034 radius circle gave a reasonably tight fit, but still insertable by hand, so I made my alignment holes that size. The brass rods I selected are 2mm diameter. Some other project posted here used brass rods to align multiple layers, which seemed like a neat idea, so I decided to incorporate that into my design. During assembly, I discovered 7 layers, even with the foam padding, was sufficient, so I went with one fewer layers on one side of each dice vault. I picked a 1" hex (flat-to-flat) based on measuring some dice, and then decided to also make the pocket 1" – 4 layers on each half. I had considered using 1/4 material, and wanted to find the engraving setting that would produce a depth of 1/8" to fit the magnets in, but couldn’t find just the right settings for this to be consistent, so I just went with 1/8" material and more layers. ![]() Some thoughts on design, assembly, and what I’d change for next time: If anyone else makes this, please post photos & let me know how it works for you! I designed this to cut in 3 passes, with the idea that it would cut all the way through and the goal of keeping as much attached as long as possible to avoid anything lose getting misaligned. This one was especially fun to watch cut. For my test cuts, this went all the way through, but with the final cut it left everything just barely connected (which was actually better). ![]() For the 2mm eva foam, I used speed 500, power 60. Here’s the grid for the hexes, to cut the foam. It took just over an hour to for each print, using the default settings for “Medium basewood plywood”. I left the text in place, in case you want to change the font/size/etc, but if you do, remember that GFUI ignores the text, and you’ll need to use Inkscape’s “object to path” option to convert the text to be able to engrave it. ![]() The dice and dragon designs are from public-domain clipart I found online, which I also used on my dice tower the D&D class icons came from D&D Class Ornaments the rest is my original design.Ĭut 2 of the “magnet” layers, 5 or 6 of the “middle” layers (I initially planned for 6, but during assembly decided to use only 5), and any two “top” layers. Gloss Finish Polyurethane spray (though bought locally).2mm eva foam (from Joann Fabrics & Crafts can’t find a link).
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